It is fashionable in certain circles, among trend-conscious sommeliers for example, to deride the wines of Bordeaux. The fact that the top wines now sell at such unrealistic prices unfairly taints the reputation of the entire region, when in fact, at the other end of the scale, Bordeaux can offer some of the best wine value of all.

This is particularly true at the moment because the vintages currently on offer commercially – 2010, 2009 and, to a lesser extent, 2008 – were generally so successful, in stark contrast to the upcoming 2012 and 2011 vintages. I would urge those who like their red bordeaux plump and rich rather than lean and willowy to take particular advantage of the 2009s, which are chock-full of ripe fruit and easy appeal. The serious ones should be left for six or seven years more, but many are already gorgeous.

The Wine Society, canny buyers of bordeaux over many decades, are currently offering some particular bargains among 2009 red bordeaux. The most obvious is the straightforward Christian Moueix 2009 Bordeaux that is bought, blended and bottled in considerable quantity every year by the famous Libourne merchant J P Moueix. All luscious and fleshy, this wine is stunning value. I honestly find it very difficult to believe that all that pleasure, with a firm Bordeaux accent, so with good structure too, is available at less than ￡8 a bottle – although the Wine Society is admittedly a special case. Being a wine-buying co-operative, the outfit specifically avoids profiteering.