For years, I’ve assumed that surfing is something that other people do. Younger, fitter, people. People who look good in neoprene and have highly developed upper-body strength. In oceans around the world, I’ve swum around surfers, and past them. I’ve observed the mating rituals of surfer dudes and surfer dudettes — the specialised language and elaborate signalling behaviours. And I have bought into the surfing myth: that it is a tough sport for fearless people where only the strong survive.
多年來，我一直以為沖浪是別人玩的運動。它適合身體強壯的年輕人、適合穿上潛水服后形象好，而且上肢力量特別大的人。在全球各大洋，我曾在沖浪者周圍游過泳，也曾從他們旁邊游過。我也曾仔細觀察過男女配對的沖浪動作——具有專門的形體語言與復雜的信息傳遞行為方式。于是，我對沖浪形成了錯誤看法：它是無畏者的極限運動，只有身強力壯的人方能勝任。
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