Black tie is bound by rules and traditions,” says Robert Whitt-aker, shirtmaker at Savile Row tailors Dege & Skinner. “It’s hard to change much without undermining the formality of what you’re wearing.” But, he adds, “there is a big range of possibilities with the shirt, whether it’s the immediate choice between pleats and marcella or the style of collar.” When it comes to black tie, the difference is in the dress shirt details.

Traditional dress shirts presumed that a man would never remove his jacket during the evening. The front, therefore, was shaped to fit the gap left by his waistcoat or open jacket. A starched oval section would be cut to the curved opening of the waistcoat, later replaced by waffle-like marcella. When men in tropical climes began wearing a cummerbund instead of a waistcoat, the shirt front was amended to a long, rectangular section, which suited pleats. And thus choice was born.

But it’s not just a choice between starched, marcella or pleated front. Also up for debate are wing collars or turndowns; French or cocktail cuffs; stud, button or a fly front. Not to mention the shirt’s back, which can be anything from regular cotton to an almost transparent voile. British army officers even established a tradition of using cotton printed with bright patterns or cartoon characters. During mess dinner, their jackets would remain on and the outfit seemingly formal; afterwards the jackets would be removed, displaying their humorous creations. It’s enough to give a man option anxiety.