When friends suggested we have Sunday lunch at Yam'Tcha, a hot new Asian restaurant in central Paris, I was ambivalent. As a former resident of Hong Kong, I recognised Yam'Tcha (or yum cha) as a term for calorie-laden dim sum dumplings consumed in an environment of clattering trolleys, bright lights and endless pots of tea. Fine for Hong Kong, but an odd choice in Paris.

But Yam‘Tcha's intimate space near Les Halles (pictured) couldn't be more different from Hong Kong's boisterous dumpling palaces – or more French. The offerings include items such as bread, cheese and an impressive wine list.

We were given a cup of mellow phoenix oolong to sip while we decided between the four-course discovery option (€45) or the six-course tasting menu (€65). Though the kitchen is happy to accommodate food allergies there are no other choices. And no dumplings, either. For €25 extra each, we could have had a selection of teas paired to each course. Instead we opted for a Condrieu white from the Rh?ne and a Vosne-Romanée red Burgundy.